Curling, Frizzing and Shaping the Hair

Our week 4 lessons with Lottie and Helen consisted of using each other as models to create an Elizabethan hairstyle using traditional techniques. As I missed week 3's lesson, I had to experiment and produce a style on the spot without a plan.

I had not learned the technique of crimping and frizzing before starting on Beth, so to begin with I started with a spiral curl technique that I was familiar with to incorporate a style of curl into the Elizabethan style. Looking back on my choice, I feel I should've perhaps used a roller curl to create more volume. Once these curls were released, I started to backcomb the front section of her to start shaping it into a heart shape. 

I feel the shape was reasonably successful in creating a high hair-line and a divided, volumized heart shape. However, I feel it could've been much bigger if I had used a hair rat or crimping. This look I created is a simple and toned down version of how I would've wanted it to look. Also, the parting could've been clearer when you are looking above Beth's head. As I knew we had to incorporate a bun shape at the back

of the head, I simply created some rolls at the back to finish the look. I do not feel this could've been my best attempt but as I had missed a previous lesson learning the techniques I realised I have to practise more to create a better look. My finished attempt on Beth was not large enough to compare to an Elizabethan look, and I feel I could've incorporated more techniques (crimping and padding). I really struggled to get to grips with creating a look on the spot, so after the lesson I practised on my model head to perfect crimping and shaping this hairstyle. 



On the Kate model head, I crimped the hair all over and brushed it out to create the 'frizz' used so often in Elizabethan hairstyles. Following that, I divided the hair into a centre parting and backcombed the sides to make the sections sturdy enough to hold itself in the desired heart shape. The first image shows my attempt at this. I feel this second attempt is a more successful shape compared to the one in class as it is much more structured and solid (leaving the heart shape clear), as well as having more of an Elizabethan feel having the crimped texture. I finished the look off with a simple twist bun. The result of incorporated all the hair into this left an unintentional heart shape from the back of the head too. Once I noticed this, I used a pintail comb to tease the heart into the heart shape further. The attempt became much more effective with the shape as well as the frizzing technique. I also developed an idea to incorporate tiny plaits over the backcombed hair to add another dimension to the hair - almost create a cage or adornment on the hair.


In our Elizabethan Adornments lesson, I created a heart shaped plait (shown on this blog post) and developed a successful technique to re-create the look. I wanted to include my new skills into this look to develop it further. The crimping and frizzing technique allowed me to create a raised heart shape within the plait. It also allowed me to have a higher and more rounded front of the hair.

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Spiral and Roller Curls

Technical #2 with Lottie Davies

In this lesson, we were looking at two different types of curls: roller curls and spiral curls. We needed to know how to achieve them and the difference in the final results.

Spiral Curls

Setting the curls

To start with, I sectioned the hair into half and then divided the one side again to make it easier to curl all the bits of hair equally. I then took the curling tong and wrapped the hair around the barrel vertically until it reached the head. To prevent burning the scalp, I practised using my plastic comb in between the head and the tong the protect the model. Each piece of hair should be curled the opposite way to the piece before - for example the first piece will be curled away from the way so the next should be curled towards the face. This is so the curls are not uniform as when they drop, otherwise they will all fall the same way and look unflattering. Once the hair had heated up, I released the clip and let the hair out. To set the curls, I used a hair grip to pin the curl together while it cools down. At this point, we were advised not to use any hairspray to keep the hair as natural as possible but to also prevent any whiteness appearing from a combination of mixing heat, hairspray and brushing. 

I continued this technique of curling, releasing and setting all around the half I was working on until it was all curled and cooling down. Once the hair was completely cool, I removed the pins and let the hair drop. The first image below is the hair when it first was released. The curls are loose and layered but are reasonably flat on the top of the hair (as a result of the way it is curled, without the emphasis being on the volume). The other images show the hair once it was shaken and had my fingers run through. The curls have more volume and have merged more. 

I feel with more practise I would be able to complete this task a lot quicker as it took me 30-50 minutes to complete one side of the head. The challenging part was releasing the hair from the heat and pinning it into place before the hair drops and I know the only way to make this easier for myself is the practise! This way of curling is new to me, as I use a curling wand usually, so using a barrel wand has allowed me to gain a new skill in curling and I now understand the most common way to curl so I will be able to confidently use this throughout my career. 

Roller Curls

To start the roller curls, I separated the hair once again and this time the curling barrel is turned sideways and the hair must be curled underneath itself so I creates volume once it has cooled. I pinned each piece again to set it horizontally and continued to curl each piece in the same direction, as this technique is purely about creating the volume and there is less focus on the direction of the curl. Each section of the hair is curled in uniform lines and the sections above and below should be in a bricklaying pattern - the curls should not be in a uniform line going up the head, they should be overlapping. This is so, again, the curls are more flattering but also create more volume. 

The first photo below shows all the layers roller curled and set with hair grips. The middle photograph demonstrates the hair once the pins are taken out - because of the technique of rolling the curl underneath itself, it holds it up and keeps the volume on its own. The final image is the head after it has been shaken and brushed out. Compared the the spiral curls, this hair is extremely volumised with defined ringlets in the hair. This technique would be excellent for Elizabethan hair as it will aid the method of creating buns or high hairstyles, as well as creating the tight curls that are very reminiscent of the 1500's.

As I completed this curling technique after the spiral curls, I had gotten to grips with working with a curling tong and managed to create tighter curls in a quicker time. As well as that, setting these curls were a lot easier and they held themselves up in the time I had to set them. I will continue to use and practise this hairstyle as it is another great technique to curl hair whilst having a lot of volume to work with in future - for example my final New Elizabethan look, an avant garde creation or a runway design.

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Plaits and Buns

Technical #1 with Lottie Davies

For our very first practical lesson on the fundamentals of hair and postiche, Lottie got us to grips with 3 types of buns and plaits on our model head.

Modern Bun

Lottie wanted us to create a 'modern' bun without using a hair doughnut to create the shape we wanted as the final result. To start with, I created a ponytail to gather all the hair together. On this particular head, I tied only half up to make it easier to practice. Then the ponytail needed to be seperated into 4 sections - top, left, right and bottom. As shown above I have gathered the top section and backcombed it slightly to make sure it keeps it shape when it is rolled in the next step. I then pinned it and repeated this technique 3 more times (the result is shown on the left). Using these 4 sections, we used fine waved pins to tease the backcombed areas and pull them across to meet the sections next to them. Once the gaps become closed between the sections, I secured them with the pin to keep the sections all together. The images below show my first attempt at the Modern Bun. I feel this was a successful first attempt as the bun has a nice rounded shape and the hair remains looking sleek and neat. However, unfortunately the hair on the model head is quite thin and therefore the bun is quite seethrough and not as thick as I would have desired.

Wrap Around Bun

For this bun, we had to start with a ponytail again and simply twist the hair and tie it around the hair tie. This created a rough bun on the top of the head. To neaten the look, I pulled bits of hair towards the scalp with a hair pin. This meant the bun looked fuller and less roughly put together. With this particular style I feel it is very easy to put together and will be a useful skill to develop, an easy one to replicate and incorporate within other hair styles. 

Plaited Bun

Again with this bun I started with a ponytail but this time I used it to create a simple 3 strand plait. Then twisted this plait around, much like the wrap around bun, to get the desired look. I found it difficult with this model to make a long enough plait to make the bun big enough and look effective. My final result was quite messy and I think on longer and thicker hair it would have a better outcome. 

Plait

To begin learning about the various types of plaits, we began by practising and demonstrating the basic plait.                                                                                                                   French Plait  Lottie then taught us how to perfect a French plait.                                                                                                                                            Fishtail Plait 

The final plait that was taught to us in this lesson was a fishtail plait. I have taught myself this before but Lottie advised that the best way was to use small section from each side to make it the most effective. Also, to not make the tension too high or you will not be able to loosen the plait to make it messier and softer.    

I wanted to try and attempt the variations of the plait using all the models hair. My first attempts are quite messy and I wasn't sure what were the best techniques to aid creating a polished French Plait and Fishtail Plait. The image on the left demonstrates my attempt in the classroom. Afterwards, Lottie advised me with the French Plait to include parts of the hair from the middle and then the outside of the head to make sure the tension is high and there will be no gaps between each section of hair. Below our my 2nd attempts of plaiting the whole head and I feel these are much more effective and professional following Lottie's advise.           

                                                                                                  

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